Adidas ‘Tang’ jacket: Why the Chinese New Year collection has gone viral

A surge in popularity for a specific Adidas track top is captivating Gen Z and sparking a broader cultural conversation. While not explicitly marketed for the Lunar New Year, the jacket—dubbed the “Chinese New Year” or “Tang” jacket online—has gone viral after debuting at Shanghai Fashion Week.

The Rise of the “Tang” Jacket

The Adidas Chinese Track Top’s ascent began in China, expanding to select Asian markets before becoming available in Europe in February. Demand quickly outstripped supply, with stores in major Chinese cities reporting sell-outs and online resellers listing the jacket for as much as $400. Videos showcasing the jacket have garnered millions of views on TikTok and Instagram, including one showing a man gifting the tops to family members that has been viewed over 2.6 million times, and another of a woman wearing the jacket garnering over 1 million views.

The jacket’s design draws heavily from traditional Chinese garments, specifically the Tang suit, which traces back to China’s Qing dynasty and its earlier iteration, the “ma gua,” worn by horse riders from the mid 17th century. Key design elements include ornamental, knotted toggles—known as frog buttons or “pankou”—and a standing Mandarin collar.

Cultural Resonance and Identity

The jacket’s popularity coincides with the “xinzhongshi,” or “new Chinese style” trend, where young people in China are embracing and contemporizing traditional designs. This reflects a growing confidence in national and cultural identity. Sarah Cheang, a design historian at the UK’s Royal College of Art, noted the jacket offers a refreshing alternative to “stereotypical dragon motifs,” shifting associations “away from aggression and Chinese mythology, and slightly more towards Chinese traditions of contemplation, scholarship and more internal balance practices such as tai chi.”

Adidas created the jacket with Chinese consumers in mind, as part of a broader strategy to design in—and for—the country’s domestic market. The company has also collaborated with Chinese designers like Samuel Gui Yang and celebrities such as Edison Chen.

A Viral Trend and Global Impact

Beyond its initial target audience, the jacket has resonated globally, fueled by the viral “You met me at a very Chinese time in my life” meme and the broader “Chinesemaxxing” trend. This phenomenon appears to reflect a disillusionment with the US and a growing interest in China’s rising global influence. Bohan Qiu, founder of Shanghai-based creative agency Boh Project, described the jacket as “the perfect armor…to tie this trend together.”

Social media users, particularly within the Asian diaspora, have also engaged with the trend, often humorously exploring themes of cultural reconnection and identity. Content creators have shared skits and videos playfully depicting the experience of embracing Chinese culture through the jacket.

What’s Next?

The Adidas jacket’s success could encourage other brands to explore and incorporate Chinese design elements into their products. It’s possible we’ll see a continued rise in “Chinesemaxxing” and similar trends, as Gen Z continues to engage with and celebrate Chinese culture. Further collaborations between international brands and Chinese designers are also likely, potentially leading to a more widespread adoption of “new Chinese style” aesthetics globally. However, continued geopolitical tensions could influence the trajectory of these trends.

Frequently Asked Questions

What is the “xinzhongshi” trend?

“Xinzhongshi,” or “new Chinese style,” is a trend among young people in China that contemporizes traditional design and reflects a rising confidence in national and cultural identity.

What are “pankou” fastenings?

“Pankou” are ornamental, knotted toggles found on the Adidas jacket, and are a key design element borrowed from traditional Chinese garments like the Tang suit.

Where was the Adidas Chinese Track Top first available for purchase?

The jacket was initially sold in China, then in a handful of Asian markets, before becoming available in Europe in February.

As the Adidas jacket continues to capture attention, what does this trend suggest about the evolving relationship between global fashion, cultural identity, and the shifting dynamics of international influence?