Body diversity returns to London fashion week as wider industry heads ultra-thin | London fashion week

London Fashion Week recently showcased a resurgence of body diversity on the catwalk, even as the wider fashion industry appears to be shifting back towards prioritizing ultra-thinness. Emerging designers are leading the charge, presenting collections that feature a broader range of body shapes than has been typical in recent seasons.

A Shift in Representation

Designers like Karoline Vitto, Phoebe English and Sinead Gorey included models ranging from a UK size 10-16 – categorized as “mid-size” – to UK size 18 and above, known as “curve” models. This contrasts with the industry’s “sample size,” which typically ranges from a UK 4-8. The move comes after a reported decline in plus-size representation, with Vogue Business reporting in September that plus-size models comprised just 0.9% of looks across major fashion weeks.

Pushing Back Against Industry Trends

Karoline Vitto, at her first show in two years, questioned the diminishing presence of curve models, asking, “Where did all the curve models go?” She stated her return to the catwalk format was a deliberate effort to counter the growing narrative that “thin is back.” Vitto’s brand, founded in 2020, offers sizes UK8 to UK22, and she intentionally cast models to reflect that range, allowing viewers to visualize how the garments would fit different body types.

Vitto’s show featured high-profile models like Jocelyn Corona, known for her work with Fenty, and Nyakier Buong, who has modeled for Vogue and Maison Margiela. Vitto emphasized the importance of representing diverse body proportions, noting differences in bust size, hip width, and shoulder breadth – details often overlooked on traditional runways.

Alternative Casting Methods

Beyond traditional casting, some designers are utilizing “street casting,” scouting models on the street or through social media. This method is more affordable, reducing costs associated with professional models and agency fees. Phoebe English included her mother and writer Aja Barber among her 12 models, while Yaku Stapleton cast gymnasts, krumpers, and contemporary dancers for a gaming-inspired show. Sinead Gorey continued to showcase curves with her signature corsetry and high hemlines.

The Influence of Luxury Brands

Casting director Emma Mattell, whose clients include Tom Ford and Vivienne Westwood, acknowledged the positive impact of emerging designers championing inclusivity. However, she stressed that lasting change requires leadership from established luxury houses. Mattell explained that emerging brands often look to these larger companies for direction, and their lack of effort towards inclusivity “trickles down,” setting a standard for what is considered commercially viable and luxurious.

The current trend towards thinness is also linked to broader cultural shifts, including the increased use of GLP-1 weight-loss drugs like Ozempic. Mattell observed that this shift is impacting models across all size categories, with both curve and mid-size models feeling pressure to be smaller to secure work.

Despite these challenges, Karoline Vitto remains optimistic, asserting that inclusivity is not merely a trend. She highlighted other size-inclusive, female-led brands like Sinéad O’Dwyer and Ester Manas as examples of genuine commitment to change, noting that women designers are uniquely positioned to understand and address the pressures surrounding body image.

Age diversity was also present, with 47-year-old singer and model Karen Elson walking for Erdem and Emilia Wickstead featuring models aged 40 and over.

Frequently Asked Questions

What sizes were represented on the London Fashion Week catwalks?

Designers showcased models ranging from a UK size 10-16 (mid-size) to UK size 18 and above (curve), alongside the traditional sample size of UK 4-8.

What percentage of looks at recent fashion weeks featured plus-size models?

According to a Vogue Business report, plus-size representation made up just 0.9% of catwalk looks across the womenswear collections shown in New York, London, Milan and Paris in September.

What is “street casting”?

Street casting involves scouting models on the street or through social media, offering a more affordable alternative to traditional casting methods.

As the fashion industry navigates these evolving standards, will emerging designers continue to lead the way in championing body diversity, or will the influence of established luxury brands ultimately dictate the prevailing aesthetic?