L.A. Chef Says His Jewish Deli Is a ‘Culinary Multi-State Solution
Chef Eric Greenspan has opened Mish, a modern update of the classic Jewish deli located in the Mid City neighborhood of Los Angeles. The non-kosher restaurant on La Brea Boulevard, situated just south of 1st Street, combines traditional Eastern European staples with Mizrahi and Sephardic culinary influences, according to Greenspan.
What is on the menu at Mish?
The menu includes traditional Jewish deli standards such as matzah ball soup, chopped liver, fried kreplach, potato latkes, and noodle kugel. Greenspan’s approach expands beyond Ashkenazi traditions to include items from the broader Jewish diaspora.
Specific offerings include a Persian frittata known as kuku sabzi, a version of toad in the hole using shakshuka, and a sabich reimagined as a bagel. According to Greenspan, the kitchen also incorporates amba into the chicken salad and cardamom into the pastrami rub, alongside a hummus bowl.
How does Mish differ from traditional Jewish delis?
Greenspan stated that the deli genre requires an overhaul to suit the appetites of 20-, 30-, and 40-year-olds. While he acknowledges the legacy of “giants” in the industry, he noted that little has changed in the genre over the last 65 years.
The establishment features a cocktail program developed by Julian Cox. This program includes daytime matcha drinks flavored with lemon halva and salted tahini cream, as well as a banana Einspanner containing turmeric and saffron.
What are the future plans for the establishment?
Greenspan and operating partner Bill Chait plan to introduce late-night hours under the name Bar Mitzvah. This concept may feature a DJ rig playing vinyl records, which Greenspan compared to a “Kibbitz Room situation” similar to the Canter’s deli annex.
Greenspan expressed a desire to replicate the Mish model in other locations. He stated that the restaurant serves as an opportunity to showcase the beauty of Jewish life and act as a center for the community at large.
What is the background of Chef Eric Greenspan?
Greenspan has previously worked under chefs Alain Ducasse, Ferran Adria, and Joachim Splichal. His local experience includes the New American restaurant The Foundry, the seafood specialist Mare in Silverlake, and a brief run of a kosher deli called Fleishik’s.
Most recently, Greenspan served as a consultant for the Tesla Diner in Hollywood. He described the project as a significant logistics challenge characterized by extreme public scrutiny and difficult interactions with Tesla executives.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is the food at Mish kosher?
No, the menu at Mish is non-kosher.
Where is Mish located?
It is located on La Brea Boulevard, just south of 1st Street in Mid City, Los Angeles.
Who is the operating partner of Mish?
The operating partner is Bill Chait, who has previous experience with Tartine and Republique.
Do you think modern updates to traditional ethnic delis help preserve cultural heritage or change it too much?