Matthieu Blazy, the man reinvigorating the $18.7bn house of Chanel

If anything has characterised Matthieu Blazy’s tenure at Chanel so far, it must surely be a smile – the mega‑grin worn by model Awar Odhiang as she closed the debut show in the Grand Palais, a venue transformed into a galaxy of multicoloured planets. She paired a white silk T‑shirt with a “piña colada” skirt, injecting a burst of cosmic energy that shifted the mood of the runway.

From Interstellar Catwalks to Subterranean Showrooms

The finale was hailed as a “moment” in an industry that saw more than a dozen designers debut that season. Anticipation for Blazy’s vision had already peaked before the interstellar spectacle, and he followed it up in December with a Métiers d’art presentation in an abandoned New York subway station, where a surprising, chic collection featured a Superman sweater.

Heritage, Revenue and a New Creative Chapter

The 41‑year‑old Belgian‑French designer was not initially rumoured as a front‑runner for the house founded by Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel in 1910. Yet Bruno Pavlovsky, president of Chanel haute couture and fashion, said the decision was never a contest: “From day one, the way he talked about Chanel, about Gabrielle Chanel, and about what Chanel could represent left us in no doubt.” Chanel remains a private empire owned by the Wertheimer brothers, with revenues of $18.7 bn in 2024, after decades under the creative direction of the late Karl Lagerfeld.

First Haute Couture Show: Romance in Mousseline

Last month Blazy unveiled his first haute couture collection – a rose‑tinted confection of mousseline and mushrooms, set to Nelly Furtado music and animated by cartoon birds. Nicole Kidman praised the work as “beautiful” and “divine,” while Tilda Swinton described the pieces as “light, free, comfortable, active, simple, anchored and delighted,” suggesting a possible return of joy after years of austere, quiet luxury.

Design Philosophy and Studio Practices

Days before the couture debut, Blazy appeared in his studio in jeans, sneakers and a navy sweater of his own design – the same sweater that opened the Métiers d’art offering. He explained that his approach stems from watching a documentary about Fred Astaire, seeking to blend entertainment with serious craftsmanship. He embraces words like “cute,” “playful” and “nostalgic,” and often presents garments without sketches, fitting them directly on the bodies of the women who will wear them.

Background and Career Path

Born in Paris in 1984 to a pre‑Colombian art expert and an anthropologist, Blazy grew up with a twin sister and an older brother, traveling widely and exploring museums freely. He studied at La Cambre in Brussels and built his résumé at Maison Margiela, Celine under Phoebe Philo, and Calvin Klein with Raf Simons. In 2021 he became creative director of Bottega Veneta, earning a reputation for exceptional craftsmanship and trompe‑l’oeil pieces such as a flannel shirt made of nappa leather.

Balancing Tradition and Innovation

Blazy acknowledges the weight of Chanel’s heritage, noting his first walk through the archives left him “overwhelmed.” He draws inspiration from Gabrielle Chanel’s love of animal print and experiments with looser proportions and new colour palettes, including a recently introduced grey shade that resonated instantly with clients.

Commercial Impact and Market Response

Chanel’s revenues were down 4.3 % in 2024, but Pavlovsky reports improvement in the second half of 2025. The house has seen a surge in boutique traffic, especially in the United States and China, and the word “confident” summed up a recent retail summit. Handbag prices have more than doubled since 2016, prompting a focus on the right assortment rather than sheer expense.

Red‑Carpet Visibility

Blazy’s designs have attracted high‑profile attention: Selena Gomez’s Golden Globes dress generated a media impact value of $7.2 million, Michelle Obama wore a Chanel suit jacket and puffball earrings while promoting her book, and A$AP Rocky has hinted at the potential for Chanel menswear.

Consumer Interest and Search Trends

According to stylist Sabrina Marshall, Chanel’s search rate on the resale platform ReSee grew 47 % in the past four months, a “astronomical” rise linked to Blazy’s fresh aesthetic. Retailers report increased demand for new shades, animal‑print motifs, and full‑look purchases, indicating that the suit has regained relevance.

Work Rhythm and Personal Life

Blazy’s day begins at 9:30 am with a focus on product development until 7:30 pm, after which he makes time for personal pursuits such as visiting his partner in southern Italy, attending galleries, walking in parks, and dancing. He admits the pressure is “immense” at night but remains proud of his role.

Frequently Asked Questions

Who closed Matthieu Blazy’s debut Chanel show?

Model Awar Odhiang closed the debut show, delivering a memorable mega‑grin on the runway.

What was the central theme of Blazy’s first haute couture collection?

The collection was a rose‑tinted confection of mousseline and mushrooms, accompanied by Nelly Furtado music and cartoon birds.

How is Chanel performing financially under Blazy’s direction?

Chanel’s revenue was $18.7 bn in 2024, down 4.3 % that year, but the second half of 2025 saw improvement, according to Chanel’s president.

What do you think of Blazy’s blend of heritage and playfulness for Chanel?