Oscars: Menswear takes center stage in costume design race

The power of costume to reveal character and amplify narrative is on full display in a quartet of recent films – “Sinners,” “Hamnet,” “Frankenstein,” and “Marty Supreme.” Beyond mere aesthetics, the clothing worn by the male protagonists in these projects serves as a crucial storytelling device, reflecting their internal states, social contexts, and pivotal moments of transformation. The designers behind these looks – Ruth E. Carter, Malgosia Turzanska, Kate Hawley, and Miyako Bellizzi – demonstrate how menswear can be far more than just fabric and tailoring.

The Language of Clothing

In Ryan Coogler’s “Sinners,” costume designer Ruth E. Carter collaborated with Michael B. Jordan to define the look of twins Smoke and Stack, returning to the Mississippi Delta in 1932. Carter drew inspiration from the style of early blues musicians, incorporating details like two-tone shoes, hats, vests, and shirts to ground the characters in their historical and musical roots. Miles Caton’s character, Sammie, a preacher’s son and gifted blues musician, embodies his passion through his clothing, notably a patched vest reflecting the wear from his guitar strap.

Did You Know? Buddy Guy, a real-life blues musician, portrays Sammie in a later scene in “Sinners,” and his signature polka dots were incorporated into the costume to emphasize the authenticity of the story.

The film features a mesmerizing sequence with artists from various eras, but the narrative consistently returns to Sammie, with Carter emphasizing the importance of re-establishing “his own force and look.” This highlights how costume can function as a visual anchor, reinforcing a character’s identity even amidst stylistic shifts.

Memory and Loss in “Hamnet”

Chloé Zhao’s “Hamnet” utilizes costume to explore themes of grief and remembrance. Costume designer Malgosia Turzanska focused on William Shakespeare’s attire as a means of expressing his mourning for his son, Hamnet. She used raw linen and latex paint to create costumes that visually represent Shakespeare’s emotional state, with Hamlet’s jerkin specifically designed to evoke the memory of Hamnet through “vertical stripes.”

The slashes in Shakespeare’s leather doublets symbolize his “emotional turmoil,” while his cloak as the Ghost is deliberately stripped of colour, coated in clay, and designed for freedom of movement. The removal of the clay, and the subsequent breakdown, visually represents a cathartic release of grief.

Expert Insight: The deliberate use of texture and colour in “Hamnet” demonstrates how costume design can move beyond representation to become a powerful symbolic language, conveying complex emotional states without relying on dialogue.

Rebellion and Persona in “Frankenstein” and “Marty Supreme”

Guillermo del Toro’s “Frankenstein” employs costume to establish Victor Frankenstein, played by Oscar Isaac, as a rebellious and unconventional figure. Kate Hawley, the costume designer, drew inspiration from rock stars like David Bowie and Prince, creating a look that defies traditional period expectations. The exaggerated shapes, puffed chest, wasp waist, and period heels all contribute to a flamboyant persona, while the piping on his waistcoat provides a striking contrast against the judges’ black attire.

Similarly, in Josh Safdie’s “Marty Supreme,” Miyako Bellizzi pays close attention to detail in crafting Timothée Chalamet’s character, Marty Mauser’s, wardrobe. Bellizzi collaborated with Keds to find the perfect 1950s-style sneakers, prioritizing both aesthetics and comfort for the table tennis player. Marty’s costumes evolve throughout the film, from sedate attire at Wembley to a vibrant pink satin set during a performance with the Harlem Globetrotters, and finally, a worn suit in Japan, culminating in a theatrical reveal during a rigged ping-pong match.

Looking Ahead

The success of these films could inspire a greater emphasis on the collaborative relationship between directors, actors, and costume designers in future projects. It is likely that filmmakers will continue to recognise the potential of costume to enhance storytelling and deepen character development. Audiences may also become more attuned to the subtle nuances of costume design, appreciating its contribution to the overall cinematic experience. A possible next step could be increased recognition for costume designers within awards ceremonies, acknowledging their vital role in bringing stories to life.

Frequently Asked Questions

What role does costume play in “Sinners”?

Costume in “Sinners” is used to embody the style of early blues musicians and to reflect the characters’ identities and passions, particularly Sammie’s connection to the music and his heritage.

How does costume design convey emotion in “Hamnet”?

In “Hamnet,” costume design uses colour, texture, and shape to visually represent William Shakespeare’s grief and remembrance of his son, Hamnet, with specific details like clay-covered cloaks and painted jerkins symbolizing emotional turmoil and memory.

What inspired the costume design for Victor Frankenstein in “Frankenstein”?

The costume design for Victor Frankenstein was inspired by rock stars like David Bowie and Prince, aiming to create a flamboyant and unconventional look that defied traditional period expectations.

How might audiences’ appreciation for costume design evolve following the success of these films?