Runway Regression: Fashion Week’s Plus-Size Model Decline & the Ozempic Effect

The Shrinking Runway & the Rise of the Prescription Physique: What’s Next for Fashion & Body Image?

The Fall-Winter 2023 fashion weeks delivered a stark message: despite recent, celebrated strides towards inclusivity, the industry is seemingly retreating to a familiar, and troubling, standard. A noticeable absence of plus-size models on runways in New York, London, Milan, and Paris coincided with escalating conversations around weight-loss medications like Wegovy and Ozempic. Is this a coincidence, or a symptom of a deeper shift in how fashion defines – and limits – beauty?

A Statistical Backslide: Numbers Don’t Lie

The data paints a clear picture. Fashion search engine Tagwalk reported a 24% decrease in mid and plus-size models compared to the Spring-Summer 2023 season. Vogue Business’s size inclusivity report revealed that a staggering 95.6% of Fall-Winter 2023 looks were in US sizes 0-4. This contrasts sharply with the reality of American women, where Plunkett Research estimated in 2015 that 68% wear a size 14 or above – a statistic that hasn’t significantly changed. “It was a definitive backslide,” says IMG model agent Mina White, representing curve supermodels like Ashley Graham and Paloma Elsesser.

The Ozempic Effect: A New Era of Weight Control?

The accessibility of medications like Wegovy, Ozempic, and others is undeniably influencing the cultural conversation around weight. Originally intended for managing Type 2 diabetes, these drugs – particularly semaglutide, the active ingredient in Wegovy and Ozempic – have gained notoriety as a quick route to weight loss, even among those without medical need. Celebrity endorsements, from Elon Musk to Chelsea Handler, have further fueled the trend. The European Medicines Agency recently issued a warning about Ozempic shortages, prioritizing prescriptions for diabetic patients due to high demand.

While these medications can be life-changing for individuals struggling with obesity and related health conditions, their potential for misuse and the societal pressure to achieve rapid weight loss raise serious concerns. Dr. Robert Lash, Chief Medical Officer of the Endocrine Society, cautions against using these drugs without medical supervision, highlighting potential side effects like nausea, vomiting, and even gallbladder problems.

Beyond the Runway: The Disconnect Between Representation & Reality

The irony isn’t lost on industry observers. Brands are quick to leverage the image and social media reach of plus-size influencers like Ashley Graham, yet hesitant to reflect that same diversity on the runway. “They wanted to utilize her image and her social following to command a certain space in the market, but they didn’t want to be reflective on their runways,” White explains. This performative inclusivity, where brands benefit from the optics of diversity without committing to genuine representation, is becoming increasingly common.

Fashion journalist Amy Odell succinctly captures the frustration: “No one needed any data to understand that representing a wide array of body shapes and sizes in runway shows or in fashion imagery is not a priority for the industry.”

Bright Spots & Emerging Voices

Despite the overall trend, some brands are bucking the status quo. London-based labels like Di Petsa, Karoline Vitto, and Sinead O’Dwyer consistently showcase size-diverse lineups. In New York, Christian Siriano, Coach, and Collina Strada have also demonstrated a commitment to inclusivity. Belgian brand Esther Manas remains a steadfast advocate for body positivity, consistently presenting collections that celebrate a range of shapes and sizes.

Did you know? Creating sample sizes for a wider range of bodies isn’t necessarily about astronomical costs, but about planning and education. Agents like Mina White proactively provide brands with models’ measurements months in advance to avoid last-minute complications.

The Sample Size Problem: A Systemic Barrier

The root of the issue often lies in the logistical challenges of sample sizes. Runway garments are typically one-off creations, designed to be easily interchangeable between models. Creating larger samples requires additional time, resources, and expertise. However, many argue that this is a matter of prioritization, not impossibility. “I get very upset when brands say that it is too much of a financial lift,” White states. “I don’t believe that it is, I believe that it’s people not being properly educated on how to do this right.”

The Future of Fashion: A Call for Industry-Wide Standards

The solution, according to many, requires a collective effort. A standardized approach to sample sizes, potentially driven by organizations like the Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA) and the British Fashion Council, could level the playing field. “If there was a call-to-action from these figureheads saying, moving forward samples need to be readily available for a few different body types, we would see significant and impactful change,” White suggests.

Stylist and editor Francesca Burns emphasizes the need for accountability from established luxury brands. “the desire to see change has to be there,” she says. “And I wonder whether luxury has that desire?”

The Bigger Picture: Redefining Beauty

The conversation extends beyond runway representation. The rise of weight-loss medications underscores the pervasive societal pressure to conform to unrealistic beauty standards. Ester Manas and Balthazar Delepierre, in their show notes, eloquently capture the essence of inclusivity: “The body is not the subject. Because, obviously, at a wedding, everybody is invited. And all to the party.”

FAQ: Navigating the New Landscape

• Are weight-loss medications safe for everyone? No. They should only be used under medical supervision and are not suitable for individuals without a medical need.
• Why is sample size such a big issue in fashion? It’s a logistical challenge, but also a reflection of the industry’s historical prioritization of a single body type.
• What can consumers do to support inclusivity? Support brands that prioritize diversity, demand representation, and challenge unrealistic beauty standards.
• Is the fashion industry truly committed to inclusivity? Progress is slow and uneven. While some brands are making genuine efforts, others are engaging in performative activism.

Pro Tip: Look beyond the runway. Pay attention to brands that consistently feature diverse models in their campaigns, editorial shoots, and marketing materials.

What are your thoughts on the current state of inclusivity in fashion? Share your opinions in the comments below! Explore our other articles on sustainable fashion and body positivity to learn more.