The Blancpain Villeret Ultraplate, now in 38mm

Blancpain has updated its Villeret Ultraplate 38mm collection with new dial aesthetics and a refined case profile, signaling a broader industry shift toward compact, mid-century-inspired dress watches. According to the manufacturer, the collection now features a sunray-brushed salmon dial option and a redesigned monogram logo, while maintaining the slim 8.35mm profile of the previous 38mm iteration released in 2020.

Why Watch Collectors Are Moving Toward 38mm Cases

The industry is seeing a clear pivot away from the oversized watch trends of the 2010s. Blancpain’s decision to standardize the Villeret Ultraplate at 38mm reflects a demand for “discretion on the wrist,” as noted by Monochrome Watches. While 40mm models remain available, the 38mm case—with a 43.35mm lug-to-lug distance—is designed to slide easily under a dress shirt cuff, a functional priority for the modern collector.

Pro Tip: When evaluating a dress watch, pay close attention to the lug-to-lug measurement rather than just the case diameter. A shorter lug-to-lug, like the 43.35mm found on the Villeret, often ensures a more balanced fit on smaller wrists.

The Shift Toward Warm Dial Tones

Blancpain is incorporating softer, warmer color palettes into its entry-level range, mirroring the design language seen in the brand’s “Golden Hour Series.” The latest collection introduces a sunray-brushed salmon dial paired with a steel case, a combination previously absent from the Villeret line. According to Blancpain, the use of opaline finishes and gold-toned accents across the collection aims to offer a “fresher, less formal” aesthetic compared to traditional, stark-white dress watch dials.

Technical Evolution of the Calibre 1150

Despite the exterior aesthetic updates, the internal mechanics remain rooted in performance. The Villeret Ultraplate 38mm continues to utilize the in-house automatic Calibre 1150. Key technical specifications provided by the manufacturer include:

Power Reserve: 4 days.
Hairspring: Silicon, for improved magnetic resistance.
Rotor: New openworked yellow gold design for steel models.
Strap System: Tool-free, interchangeable buckle and strap mechanism.

Did you know? The traditional “XII” marker on the Villeret dial has been replaced by the “JB” monogram, a nod to the brand’s founder, Jehan-Jacques Blancpain, who established his workshop in 1735.

Market Positioning and Pricing

The Villeret Ultraplate 38mm serves as the entry point into Blancpain’s classic collection. Pricing starts at CHF 9,600 for stainless steel models and reaches CHF 19,700 for 18k red gold versions. By keeping the price point accessible relative to the brand’s high-complication pieces, Blancpain positions this watch as a gateway for collectors interested in heritage-focused horology.

New Blancpain Villeret Ultraplate 38mm | Hands On

Frequently Asked Questions

Is the 38mm Villeret Ultraplate a limited edition?

No, the collection is part of the brand’s permanent lineup, though specific configurations like the boutique-only edition with yellow gold accents may have limited availability.

What is the thickness of the new Villeret Ultraplate?

The watch measures 8.35mm in thickness, maintaining the slim profile required for a traditional dress watch.

Are the straps interchangeable?

Yes, Blancpain has equipped the collection with a tool-free, interchangeable strap and buckle system, allowing owners to switch between nubuck alligator leather options without specialized tools.

Are you a fan of the move toward smaller, more discreet dress watches, or do you prefer a larger presence on the wrist? Join the conversation in the comments below or subscribe to our newsletter for the latest updates on luxury watch releases.