Cycling Through Literature: Emmanuel Ruben’s Journey Along the Loire

Emmanuel Ruben has documented a 1,000-kilometer cycling journey from the estuary to the source of the Loire River in his new book, Sur la route de la Loire. The work, published by Stock, blends physical exertion with a study of French literary figures and the river’s changing geography.

Ruben’s project began before the COVID-19 pandemic, faced a suspension during lockdown, and was completed afterward. This French expedition follows his 2019 European project, Sur la route du Danube. According to the text, the 268-page book costs €20.90 and organizes the trip into four sequences, each introduced by a handwritten map marking stages and literary references.

How does Ruben connect cycling with French literature?

Ruben uses the river as a “fluid and varied” subject to link physical travel with literary history. He references Élisée Reclus, stating the river is a “living, acting, transforming country.”

The journey begins with the influence of Julien Gracq, who lived along the Loire for over a decade. Ruben’s route progresses through the Val-de-Loire, connecting the works of Rabelais, Péguy, and Balzac. In Tours, he notes the childhood home of Yves Bonnefoy, while Saint-Benoît-sur-Loire is linked to Max Jacob.

The author also identifies Maurice Genevoix as a precursor to “nature writing.” As the route reaches the upper Loire and the Massif central, Ruben notes a decrease in available literary resources, though he references Francis Ponge’s 1941 poetic work and Robert Louis Stevenson’s travels in the Vivarais.

What environmental concerns does the author highlight?

Ruben uses his travelogue to denounce specific threats to the river. He cites the “annexation” of the Loire by nuclear power plants and describes a “sinister” hunting scene at Chambord.

The author explicitly rejects the slogan describing the Loire as “the last wild river in Europe.” He bases this conclusion on the presence of centuries-old dikes and a series of dams. He describes the river instead as a “mobile bed” and a “shifting shore,” citing the geographer Vidal de la Blache.

Where does the journey lead and what are the results?

The route concludes at Mont Gerbier-de-Jonc, where the Loire begins. The final stages involve steeper climbs through the Massif central and the Vivarais region.

Ruben also documents the regional cuisine of the “Ligérie” basin. His diet included fish, meat, charcuterie, and wine, alongside local produce such as Nantes chard, Forez cardoons, and Sologne asparagus.

Given Ruben’s history with the Danube and the Loire, he may continue to develop this “cyclable version” of viatic literature by exploring other major waterways. Future projects could potentially apply this same blend of physical endurance and literary mapping to other European regions.

Frequently Asked Questions

How long is the cycling route described in the book?
The route covers 1,000 kilometers in France, from the river’s mouth to its source.

What previous book did Emmanuel Ruben write?
He wrote Sur la route du Danube in 2019.

Why does the author disagree that the Loire is a “wild river”?
Ruben points to the existence of dams and secular dikes as evidence that the river is not entirely wild.

Would you prefer to explore a region through its literary history or its natural geography?