How to Turn 300 Pairs of Jeans Into a Billion-Yen Business

Ssstein, the independent fashion brand founded by Kiichiro Asakawa, is experiencing significant growth and poised for further international expansion. Over the past decade, Asakawa has cultivated a business with over 100 stockists globally, a number set to increase with the addition of Selfridges, Mr Porter, and Net-a-Porter beginning with the Spring/Summer 2026 season. The brand’s annual revenue has nearly doubled in the last five years, reaching JPY 1 billion ($6 million).

A Rising Force in Menswear

Ssstein has quickly gained recognition for its distinctive aesthetic – floaty silhouettes and a muted, almost austere, style. This has resonated particularly with menswear enthusiasts, positioning the brand alongside other prominent Japanese labels like Auralee and A.Presse. The brand’s founder, a 39-year-old former buyer, continues to oversee his first retail space, Carol, located in Tokyo’s Shibuya district, which he opened in 2016.

From Remade Denim to Global Brand

Asakawa’s journey began by remaking jeans using his aunt’s sewing machine, selling approximately 300 pairs under the name Stein. He described the response as “really good,” sparking a desire to create his own clothing line. The first official Stein collection debuted in Fall/Winter 2017, followed by showroom presentations starting in Spring/Summer 2018. In 2024, the brand was rebranded as Ssstein to address trademark concerns in the global market.

Did You Know? Kiichiro Asakawa learned design by repurposing vintage clothing while working at Naichichi, a now-defunct store in Harajuku.

Paris and Beyond

Ssstein has been showing off-schedule in Paris for the past two seasons, a strategy Asakawa credits with boosting annual sales by around JPY 250 million ($1.8 million). This week marks a significant step as the brand joins the official men’s calendar, presenting its Fall/Winter 2026 collection. This move is intended to further expand Ssstein’s international reach.

Expert Insight: The transition from off-schedule showings to an official calendar slot represents a calculated risk for Ssstein, potentially increasing visibility and attracting a wider audience, but also subjecting the brand to greater scrutiny and industry expectations.

Frequently Asked Questions

Who founded Ssstein?

Kiichiro Asakawa, a 39-year-old former buyer, founded Ssstein.

What is Ssstein’s current annual revenue?

Ssstein’s annual revenue is currently JPY 1 billion ($6 million).

Where did Kiichiro Asakawa first begin making clothes?

Kiichiro Asakawa began making clothes by remaking jeans at his store, Carol, using his aunt’s sewing machine.

As Ssstein prepares for its official debut on the men’s fashion calendar, what impact do you think a focus on muted aesthetics and floaty silhouettes will have on the broader menswear landscape?