Italian Footwear Brand Ilio Smeraldo Launches Men’s Shoes at Pitti Uomo
Italian footwear brand Ilio Smeraldo is expanding into menswear with a Spring 2027 collection debuting this week at the Pitti Uomo trade show. Founder Barbara Borghini told WWD the move follows organic demand from male clients who previously purchased larger sizes from the brand’s women’s lines.
Why is Ilio Smeraldo launching a men’s collection?
The expansion is a “natural evolution” for the brand, according to Borghini. She noted that male customers were already buying larger sizes from the women’s collections, signaling a genuine market demand.
Borghini stated that the brand focuses on a cosmopolitan lifestyle and mindset rather than strict age or gender categories. The design process remains instinctive, prioritizing comfort and functionality over rigid distinctions between men’s and women’s products.
What styles are included in the Spring 2027 range?
The new range draws from the rebellious iconography of the 1970s. It includes the Saint Germain refined loafers, the tasseled Rivoli version, Newport soft slip-ons, and the Mayfer reinterpreted ballet flat.
According to the brand, the shoes are crafted from supple leather, velvety suede, shiny satin, and woven raffia. The color palette ranges from neutrals like navy and taupe to earthy tones such as oregano, burgundy, and marigold.
How does the brand maintain its Italian craftsmanship?
Ilio Smeraldo revamped its operations in April 2025 to increase the focus on artisanal production. All shoes are crafted in Tuscany by local artisans using mainly locally sourced materials.
Borghini described the protection of this disappearing expertise as one of the brand’s most important missions. The company operates as a direct-to-consumer project with a price point averaging between 150 and 250 euros.
While the brand shares production and distribution with Borghini’s other label, Giaborghini, it remains a separate entity regarding strategy and creative direction.
What may happen next for the brand’s growth?
The brand could potentially expand its collaboration activity into the men’s category. Borghini has expressed openness to such projects, following a recent collaboration with the Caraluna concept store.
However, the brand is likely to keep the immediate focus on the product itself. Borghini stated she does not want to distract customers from the strength of the collection at this stage.
Distribution for the men’s line is expected to follow the same strategy as the women’s line, which is currently available at Le Bon Marché and Samaritaine in Paris, as well as Chapters in Milan.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is the average price of Ilio Smeraldo shoes?
The price point typically averages between 150 euros and 250 euros.
Where are Ilio Smeraldo shoes manufactured?
All shoes are crafted in Tuscany by local artisans using primarily locally sourced materials.
Which retailers carry the brand?
The brand is available at Chapters in Milan and both Samaritaine and Le Bon Marché in Paris.
Do you prefer classic loafers or more experimental styles like the reinterpreted ballet flat for men?